Drying, ironing, dry-cleaning, storage and labels

Drying. Hang washed clothes wrong side out in the sun: it dries them fast, works as an antiseptic, and bleaches whites. But silk and wool are damaged by strong sun, and synthetics lose strength and turn permanently yellow, so dry these in the shade or indoors.

Ironing removes wrinkles and sets creases. It needs three things:

• Heat: a charcoal iron is cheap but can stain the cloth and its heat cannot be controlled; an automatic electric iron lets you set the right temperature for each fibre.
• Moisture: iron while still damp, or sprinkle water and roll the article in a towel, or use a spray bottle.
• Pressure: move the iron along the length of the fabric. Things that stretch, like lace, are pressed (put down, lifted, put down elsewhere), not ironed; pressing also sets creases, hems, pockets and pleats.
• Use a padded but firm board at a comfortable height, or 3-4 layers of thick cloth on a level surface. Then fold or hang the clothes ready for use.

Dry-cleaning cleans fabric in a liquid other than water, usually perchloroethylene, a petroleum solvent or a fluorocarbon. Water is absorbed by fibres and causes swelling, shrinkage, wrinkles and colour bleeding; dry solvents do not, so dry-cleaning is safe for delicate fabrics. It is done by professional cleaners: each item is tagged, inspected and spot-treated on a spot board first (water-soluble stains need this). Telling the cleaner what the stain is helps. Cleaners may also mend, renew finishes (water repellency, permanent creases, mothproofing) and clean leather, quilts, carpets and curtains.

Storage. India's seasons mean many clothes are put away for months.

• Store only clothes that are clean, dry and mended, with stains removed. Brush and dry-clean woollens first. Turn pockets out, shake off dust and grit, then wash, iron and fold.
• Pack loosely: tight packing sets permanent creases.
• Use cupboards or trunks that are clean, dry, insect-free, away from dust, in low humidity.

Fibre decides care:

• Cotton and linen: strong, stronger when wet, take hard friction, strong detergents and high heat (can even be boiled). Acids weaken them, so rinse acids out. They crush easily and must be ironed damp or they scorch. Store fully dry against mildew; heavily starched cotton attracts silverfish, so remove starch before long storage.
• Wool: weak, and weaker wet; harmed by alkali (avoid strong soaps). Rubbing makes it felt and shrink, so wash in cold water with minimum handling. Draw an outline of a knitted garment before washing and stretch it back to shape after. It rarely needs ironing; if needed, steam press, never iron directly. Protect from moths and carpet beetles, for example with naphthalene balls.
• Silk: weaker wet; use gentle handling and mild detergent, as strong alkalis damage it. It wrinkles, so iron it damp at low heat (it scorches easily). Sweat damages it; never store it soiled; do not dry in the sun.
• Rayon: weak, weaker wet, shrinks, stretches and wrinkles easily but is easy to iron; use mild soaps; store clean and dry against mildew and silverfish.
• Nylon: very strong, even wet; needs no special care but picks up dirt from other clothes, so wash it separately. Dries fast. Long sunlight weakens it, so it is a poor choice for curtains.
• Polyester: strong, resilient, dries quickly, needs no hot ironing; but it absorbs little water (uncomfortable in heat), forms pills (small balls) that cannot be removed, and holds oily stains. Blended with cotton, avoid very hot water.
• Acrylic: easy to wash, resists sun, moths and most chemicals, but catches fire readily and keeps melting and burning: a real hazard for children's clothes.

Beyond the fibre: high-twist yarns may shrink; fancy and novelty yarns, satin and pile weaves snag; knits stretch out of shape; sheers, laces, nets and felts need gentle handling; dyed and printed fabrics may lose colour and stain others; some finishes must be renewed after every wash. Weigh appearance, comfort, durability and care against how the article will be used.

The care label is a permanent label, fixed so it does not come off and stays readable for the garment's life. It gives:

• Washing: water temperature (cold, warm or hot, roughly 30, 40 and 60 degrees C on the symbols), hand or machine wash, delicate cycle, wash separately or inside out, do not wring, do not spin.
• Drying: tumble dry, drip dry, line dry, dry flat (for woollens), dry in shade.
• Ironing: hot about 210, medium about 160, low about 120 degrees C, or do not iron.
• Bleaching: chlorine bleach allowed, or do not bleach.
• Dry-cleaning: which solvents may be used, or do not dry-clean.

Example (new): a woollen sweater's label says hand wash cold, dry flat, do not tumble dry. Knead it gently in cold water with a mild soap, press out water without wringing, lay it flat on a towel in the shade, easing it back to its outline, and steam press only if needed.