Parsi food and memories of Delhi

Let's begin: know your country. Pick five states and note each one's food, dance and music, art and one other fact, then mark them on a map. India's variety is easier to remember when you see it on one page.

'Aavoji, aavo, aavo!' In old Delhi, Nowrosji Kapadia went to the station to meet the Frontier Mail (the train from Bombay to Peshawar). He would cajole (gently persuade) Parsi travellers to get off, take them home, and talk them into settling in Delhi. His wife, Jer Bai, objected, but he overruled her. That is how a small Parsi community grew in Delhi.

Cooking together. For festive gatherings the women cooked everything at home; outside catering was unheard of. Everyone ate together, so the poorer members never knew who had paid for what. That was the kindness in this way of life.

Malido and the grandmother. Food was made days ahead: dar ni pori, malido (a Parsi halwa), sev, ravo, mithu dahi, and fish dishes. The writer once helped stir malido and her arms ached for two days. Her grandmother was small and dainty (delicate and neat), yet did this work easily. After that the writer respected her far more. A good thought for us: cooking at home every day is hard work, so don't complain about the food.

Tea time. Tea was a ritual. The grandmother dressed up for it, and out came the treats: Parsi biscuits such as nan-khatai and khari, and patrel, kumas and bhakra. Those days are long gone, the writer says; she remembers them with love.