Glimpses of India
Coorg
Describe Coorg and its people.
Where and what. Coorg, or Kodagu, is the smallest district of Karnataka, 'midway between Mysore and the coastal town of Mangalore'. It has rolling hills, evergreen rainforests (about 30% of the district), spices and coffee estates. 'The air breathes of invigorating coffee.'
When to go. The monsoon rain is so heavy that it keeps many visitors away. The good season, 'the season of joy', is from September to March.
The Kodavus and where they may come from. The people are proud, 'fiercely independent' and martial (warlike). Their customs differ from the Hindu mainstream. There are two possible origins, and the book says 'possibly':
- Greek: 'as one story goes', some of Alexander's soldiers settled here and married local people;
- Arab: their long black coat with an embroidered belt, the kuppia, is like the kuffia worn by Arabs and Kurds.
Hospitality and bravery.
- Coorgi homes love guests and love to tell tales of valour about their sons and fathers.
- The Coorg Regiment is one of the most decorated in the Indian Army.
- General Cariappa, the first Chief of the Indian Army, was a Coorgi.
- Kodavus are the only people in India allowed to carry firearms without a licence.
River, animals and adventure.
- the Kaveri gets its water here; mahaseer (a big fish), kingfishers, squirrels and langurs dropping fruit 'for the mischief of enjoying the splash', and elephants bathed by their mahouts;
- river rafting, canoeing, rappelling (sliding down a cliff on a rope), rock climbing, trekking;
- the Brahmagiri hills for a wide view, a rope bridge to the 64-acre island of Nisargadhama, and Buddhist monks from Bylakuppe, India's largest Tibetan settlement.
To get there: through Madikeri, about 250–260 km from Bangalore.
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