How fashion developed

In ancient and medieval times, styles hardly changed for a century. The Renaissance brought contact with other cultures and new fabrics, and change sped up.

From the early 18th century, France led fashion. The court of Louis XIV set the taste; French cities supplied silk, ribbons and lace; and all clothes were made by hand, to measure. Couture is the art of dressmaking; the designer is a couturier (man) or couturière (woman).

The Industrial Revolution (the spinning jenny, power looms) made more fabric, faster. It also created a middle class that could buy better clothes. The sewing machine, with Singer's foot treadle freeing both hands, turned clothing into an industry and made fashion available to everyone.

Other steps:

• hard-wearing denim trousers (Levi Strauss) began workwear;
• separate skirts and blouses (1880s) let women mix and match;
• fairs, bazaars, general stores and city retail stores spread affordable fashion.

In the 1960s, prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear: factory-made, in standard sizes) became the alternative to haute couture (made-to-measure). Yves Saint Laurent was the first French couturier with a full ready-to-wear line. From hand-made for kings to ready-to-wear for all.