Principles of design in dress

The principles of design decide how the elements are combined.

Proportion relates the parts to each other and to the whole, often by the golden mean (3:5:8, 5:8:13). For example, a short top of 3 parts over a skirt of 5 makes a pleasing whole of 8. Unequal divisions look better, and slimmer, than equal halves. Proportion applies to colour, texture (bulky textures overpower a petite person) and shape (a high waist hides a maternity figure).

Balance spreads the visual weight from the centre, both vertically and horizontally. Formal (symmetrical) balance is the least expensive and most expected; it is stable but can be monotonous. Horizontal balance can correct figure problems: a dark hue on a larger part of the body makes it look smaller.

Emphasis is the focal point, where the eye goes first: often near the face (an embroidered yoke). A bright belt shows off a small waist; but a belt on large hips draws attention to them.

Rhythm makes the eye flow:

• repetition (lace, buttons, piping);
• gradation (sizes slowly increasing or decreasing);
• radiation (gathers spreading from a point);
• parallelism (tucks, pleats, bands).

Harmony (unity) brings all the elements together: the same shape throughout, and matching textures (a silk salwar-kurta with a silk dupatta). Proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, harmony.